City Guides Istanbul

Istanbul is a favorite in the Gohar World universe — it’s where Laila and Nadia’s mother lives, and where Nadia celebrated her wedding this summer. An ancient city spanning two continents, life here unfolds around the Bosphorus — bustling markets, boat rides, and long meals that stretch late into the night.

EAT

PANDELI RESTAURANT

An Istanbul institution tucked above the Spice Bazaar that’s served the city for more than a century. Its famous blue-tiled dining room serves charcoal-fired döner kebab, eggplant pie, and classic Turkish desserts.

SUNA’NIN YERI

This traditional seafood restaurant set directly on the Bosphorus in the charming neighbourhood of Kandilli was the setting for Nadia and Nour’s wedding dinner. Order fava, fish, and cheese and melon for a long dinner by the sea.

ALI OCAKBAŞI KARAKÖY

A traditional ocakbaşi — a Turkish restaurant centered around cooking over a charcoal fire. The waterside location pairs grilled meats and mezes with sweeping views across the Golden Horn.

GIRITLI RESTAURANT

A Cretan restaurant tucked into the historic neighbourhood of Sultanahmet, with a leafy courtyard made for dinner outside. Come hungry for the set menu, which includes mezes, seafood, and other Mediterranean dishes, plus unlimited drinks.

FATİHLİ KURUFASULYECİ ALİ BABA

This no-frills restaurant in Fatih specializes in kuru fasulye, Turkey’s beloved white bean stew, served simply with buttery rice. Our vote for the best bean in Istanbul.

ÇİYA SOFRASI

Cross to the Asian side of Istanbul for this Kadıköy institution founded by Chef Musa Dağdeviren, a culinary anthropologist renowned for preserving traditional Anatolian recipes as varied as the country itself. The coolest thing about the Çiya restaurants — there are three — is that Chef Musa operates all of them within a single block. You can sit at any of them and have a great time. 

ASMALI CAVIT

A classic Beyoğlu meyhane for an old-school Istanbul night. Fill the table with hot and cold mezes, order a bottle of rakı, and settle in for a long dinner.

KARAKÖY LOKANTASI

A go-to choice for a nice dinner. We often think about the crispy deep-fried courgette with yoghurt, and the sea bass with remoulade. There’s also a selection of over 80 mezze that’s hard to beat.

KOÇO

A textbook fish restaurant — open-air, very simple and straight-to-the-point; just how we like it. There’s no menu here, you pick from the fish selection they have for the day, and pair it with a classic, refreshing beer. This is a port city meal at its best.

DURUMCU MUSTAFA

 This kebab place, with a grill in the heart of the restaurant, is a mainstay for a reason — if we could choose one kebab place in a city full of them, this would be the one. Everything is kept fresh, simple, yet deeply flavorful.

BALIK EKMEK AT EMINONU

You’ll find traditional Turkish fish sandwiches throughout Istanbul, but this neighborhood is famous for them. Along the waterfront, boats grill fish to order and serve it simply in bread — a perfect meal on the go.

DO

ZEYREK ÇİNİLİ HAMAM

A nearly 500-year-old hammam designed by the Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan. Book a traditional bath treatment, then visit the attached museum and contemporary art space to see fragments of the İznik tiles that once covered its interiors.

BASILICA CISTERN

Descend beneath the city center into the largest of Istanbul’s many ancient cisterns. Built in the sixth century, its vast interior is filled with marble columns rising from the water. Go early to experience it before the crowds.

TOPKAPI PALACE

The sprawling former home of the Ottoman sultans is filled with centuries of architecture and decorative arts. Don’t miss a favorite in Gohar World — the Harem quarters and their painted rooms, tiles, and elaborate interiors.

SPICE BAZAAR

No trip to Istanbul is complete without a stop at the Spice Bazaar. Wander beneath the vaulted ceilings of this seventeenth-century market for spices, teas, dried fruits, sweets, and pantry staples. Grab a kofta and shepherd’s salad for lunch at Tarihi Özkan Köftecisi.

BÜYÜKADA, PRINCES’ ISLANDS

The Princess’ Islands are hidden gems of Istanbul and an escape from the city’s bustle. Take an hour ferry across the Sea of Marmara to Büyükada, the largest of Istanbul’s Princes’ Islands to spend the day walking among old wooden mansions and pine-covered hills, swimming, and eating ice cream. Don’t miss a stop for a long seafood lunch at Eskibağ Terrace.

FERIKOY ANTIQUE MARKET

A Sunday flea market filled with antiques and unexpected treasures. Browse the stalls, then stop for gözleme, traditional Turkish flatbreads cooked fresh at the market.

DRINK

NOH RADIO BAR

A small Cihangir bar and radio station where the focus is music. Come for a drink and come for late-night DJ sets, when the crowd spills out onto the street.

KURUKAHVECI MEHMET EFENDI

Just steps away from the Spice Bazaar, this is the oldest — and best spot for Turkish coffee in Istanbul. 

TAVERN

A cozy spot spinning vinyl on weekends that serves great wine, cocktails, and small bites.  

 VEFA BOZACISI

This quaint cafe serves boza, a thick, creamy fermented drink made from millet semolina, water, and sugar, traditionally topped with cinnamon and roasted chickpeas.

STAY

ÇIRAĞAN PALACE KEMPINSKI

A former Ottoman imperial palace on the edge of the Bosphorus — and the setting for Nadia and Nour’s wedding. Stay for the waterfront views, elaborate interiors, and the rare opportunity to wake up inside one of Istanbul’s historic palaces.

PERA PALACE

Built in 1895 for passengers arriving aboard the Orient Express, this storied hotel preserves the glamour of old Istanbul, with grand interiors and plenty of history.

GEORGES HOTEL GALATA

A small boutique hotel tucked into the winding streets of Galata, with rooms overlooking the Bosphorus and a rooftop terrace above the city.

PETEK PENSION

An intimate guesthouse on the Asian side of the city, offering a quieter, more residential home base for exploring Istanbul.

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